文摘
This project analyses the changing social and political constructions of appropriately gendered nationalistic identity and behavior in light of China's marketizing reforms. It focuses on the local manifestations of the global clothing system, from structural aspects such as the joint-venture enterprises that channel production overloads to small individually owned and operated apparel-making businesses (fuzhuang jiagongbu) in which entrepreneurship is a “gendered” activity to expressions of personal and individual agency by young urban women for whom “fashion” (shizhuang) has become both part of the package of interests surrounding job-seeking and part of the new, post-reform entertainment. This project seeks to define how new clothing opportunities—i.e. clothes as labor market marker and/or clothes as business opportunity—affect expressions of nationalism through clothing styles and colors for both men and women.;Gendered expressions of nationalism through clothing styles and colors has always been a part of the Chinese political order, from the imperial Qing dynasty, with its highly articulated status-based designations of appropriate attire to the ubiquitous post-revolutionary socialist “zhongshanfu”, the Mao suit. I argue that clothing as a product and symbol of China's integration into a global economic order and clothing as a consumer good continues this articulation of appropriate ways of being a socialist national subject.